The Burning Bush? Well Maybe Not

Rusty Blackhaw Replacing The Burning Bush

Ralph Edge Shares The Burning Bush

The Burning Bush Replaced by the Rusty Blackhaw by Ralph Edge

Every year I have requests for the “burning bush” Euonymus alatus. Perhaps it is because everyone wants a red fall color and fall has just left us and they are trying to prepare for next fall, or maybe they are trying to get some biblical perspective into their landscape. Either way, I do my best to direct them away from that particular plant. Yes, it does have a brilliant red fall color and yes it does have a cool name and unusual growth along its branches, but it is capable of being invasive, grows taller than you will ever want, and above all it is a euonymus. Need I say more? It is a deciduous shrub native to eastern Asia, with an unusual cork growth along the branches similar to a wing, hence the name alatus, Latin for winged.



But I do have a recommendation for great red fall color and it is native to around here serving Dallas landscapes very well. I have borrowed a great synopsis from the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center in Austin for basic information. So allow me to introduce you to the Rusty Blackhaw viburnum, my vote for the plant of the week……




Rusty Blackhaw

Dallas Landscaping from CGreen Landscape Irrigation

Viburnum rufidulum Raf.
Rusty blackhaw viburnum, Rusty blackhaw, Southern blackhaw, Downy viburnum

Caprifoliaceae (Honeysuckle Family)
USDA Symbol: VIRU
USDA Native Status: Native to U.S.



This viburnum is a shrub or tree, usually growing to 18 ft. but sometimes taller with bark separating into dark, rectangular plates. Twigs reddish brown with a thin light gray coating. Leaves in pairs, often on short spurs, the petioles covered with rust colored, branched hairs visible under a l0x hand lens; blades up to 3 1/2 inches long, elliptic to oval or ovate, tip rounded or with a broad point, base rounded or broadly wedge shaped, margins finely serrate, firm textured with a shiny upper surface. Glossy, dark-green, deciduous leaves turn a variety of warm hues in autumn. Flowers white, from 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide, in rounded or flattened clusters up to 4 inches wide, appearing in March and April and noticeable from a distance in early spring. Fruit fleshy, bluish black lightened by a waxy coating, up to 1/2 inch long, slightly longer than wide.



Rusty Blackhaw is distinguished from the more northerly Blackhaw, Viburnum prunifolium, primarily by the reddish-brown hairs on foliage and other parts, as well as by the slightly larger leaves and paler blue fruit. The Latin species name, meaning reddish, also refers to the hairs. The two species intergrade where their ranges meet.



Plant Characteristics

Duration: Perennial
Habit: Tree
Leaf Retention: Deciduous
Leaf Arrangement: Opposite
Leaf Complexity: Simple
Leaf Shape: Elliptic
Size Notes: 15-25
Fruit:
Size Class: 12-36 ft.



Bloom Information

Bloom Color: White
Bloom Time: Apr , May

Growing Conditions

Water Use: Low
Light Requirement: Part Shade
Soil Moisture: Dry

Cold Tolerant: yes

Soil Description: Dry soils. Limestone-based, Sandy, Sandy Loam, Medium Loam, Clay Loam, Clay

Conditions Comments: Slow-growing. Hard to propagate. With its waxy leaves, rusty blackhaw presents excellent fall hues of red, lavender, pink, and orange. Tiny clusters of flowers bloom in spring. In Manual of the Vascular Plants of Texas, Correll and Johnston noted that the fruit tastes similar to raisins. Rusty blackhaw is good for understory plantings. Birds appreciate the fruit.



Benefit

Use Ornamental: Showy, Understory tree, Fall conspicuous, Attractive
Use Wildlife: Nectar-bees, Nectar-butterflies, Nectar-insects, Fruit-birds, Fruit-mammals
Interesting Foliage: yes
Attracts: Birds
Deer Resistant: Moderate





Rusty Blackhaw Winter Color by CGreen Landscape Irrigation

Figure 1 Rusty Blackhaw winter color

Rusty Blackhaw Fruit by CGreenFigure 2. Rusty Blackhaw fruit



This spring, think red fall color and when you do think outside the box and think of Rusty Blackhaw viburnum. (Many thanks to Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center for the excellent information)

Enjoy the Life!!        

What Does Xeriscaping Mean to Us Texans

What Does Xeriscaping Mean to Us Texans by Ralph Edge



Xeriscaping in Dallas

Many people often ask "What is Xeriscaping" and for good reason these days as water conservation is becoming increasingly important for landscaping and irrigation in Dallas. Xeriscaping was a term coined back in the 1970s not in Dallas, but in Denver, to mean water wise or water efficient landscaping. The drought of the 1970s in Colorado was of biblical proportions and this helped change the way we think of the term “water wise” and now xeriscaping. Did you know that the historians normally say the Colorado drought lasted from 1974 until 1981….WOW! Xeriscaping at a different level than we have seen.

We've heard the history lessons of the dustbowls of the 30s and some of us at CGreen Landscape Irrigation remember the dust storms in West Texas in the late 50s. With proper planting and correct conservation of water, we can help ourselves in this current drought environment with water management practices. Think of this as a basic “primer” to your spring planting and landscaping.

So what is Xeriscaping? The term xeriscaping is derived from the Greek word xeros, which means dry. Don’t let the definition of xeriscaping mislead you into thinking we’re talking about deserts and cactus or even a drought plagued, barren landscape. Xeriscaping is a method of gardening that involves choosing plants that are appropriate to their site and creating a landscape that can be maintained with little supplemental watering.

• Xeriscaping refers to landscaping in ways that do not require supplemental irrigation. Xeriscaping is promoted in areas that do not have easily accessible supplies of fresh water.

• The word Xeriscaping was coined by combining xeros (Greek for "dry") with landscaping. Plants whose natural requirements are appropriate to the local climate are emphasized, and care is taken to avoid losing water to evaporation and run-off.

• XeriscapeTM and the xeriscape logo are registered trademarks of the Denver Water, the City of Denver's Water Department. They were created by the Front Range Xeriscape Task Force of Denver Department in 1981.

• Xeriscaping is not the same as “Xeroscaping”--in which the landscape consists mostly of concrete, stones or gravel, with perhaps a cactus or two thrown in--and can look quite lush and colorful.

Xeriscaping is NOT dry only.

• Even though dry-only landscaping can be spectacularly colorful and even lush, limited areas of highly-watered landscape are completely consistent with wise water use, if the return justifies it. Heavily-irrigated athletic field turf, for example, makes sense, since it recovers quickly from heavy use.

Xeriscaping is NOT just rocks and gravel.

• Although dry (xeric) rock gardens can be interesting, there are many other wonderful choices for the xeric portions of Xeriscape designs.

Xeriscaping is NOT about native plants only.

• Although there is a vast array of wonderful native plants, non-invasive introduced plants that are well-adapted to our climate are a wonderful addition to waterwise landscaping. Many Irises, Hollies and even Roses are example of introduced plants that are well adapted to non-irrigated landscaping in Texas.

Xeriscaping Plant is technically a meaningless term.

• Xeriscaping can have highly irrigated, as well as dry areas, so the term "xeriscape plant" means nothing. Xeric, plant, however, is an accurate term. It refers to plants that prefer to be dry most of the time. Presumably what people really mean when they say "xeriscape plant", is xeric plant.

By applying these simple techniques you will be conserving water and improving local water quality - all while still having a beautiful garden.

7 Principles of Xeriscaping

1. Careful planning and design

2. Soil Improvement

3. Intelligent reduction of turf areas

4. Choosing appropriate plants

5. Mulching

6. Wise irrigation

7. Maintenance

Remember we have a finite amount of water the better we plan the better use we have of the water that is available. When your neighbors allow their sprinkler system to run water down the street and into the storm sewer, they steal water usage from you and we all end up short of water, with dead plants and generally a bad attitude. So plant water wise plants, conserve your irrigated water and help your neighbor.

To Mulch......... Or Not To Mulch....There Can Be No Question!!

It is Time to Mulch

Mulching is one of the most important ways to maintain healthy landscape plants. The Type of mulch you choose for your garden and flower bed is more than just a personal preference, sometimes you may have weed control to consider or maybe you just want to brighten up the freshly planted beds or how about protecting your plants from the icy winter blast?


Benefits of Mulching

o When applied correctly, mulch has the following beneficial effects on plants and soil:

o Mulches prevent loss of water from the soil by evaporation.

o Mulches reduce the growth of weeds, when the mulch material itself is weed-free and applied deeply enough to prevent weed germination or to smother existing weeds.

o Mulches keep the soil cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, thus maintaining a more even soil temperature.

o Mulches prevent soil splashing, which not only stops erosion but keeps soil-borne diseases from splashing up onto the plants.

o Organic mulches can improve the soil structure. As the mulch decays, the material becomes topsoil. Decaying mulch also adds nutrients to the soil.

o Mulches prevent crusting of the soil surface, thus improving the absorption and movement of water into the soil.

o Mulches prevent the trunks of trees and shrubs from damage by lawn equipment.

o Mulches help prevent soil compaction.

o Mulches can add to the beauty of the landscape by providing a cover of uniform color and interesting texture to the surface.

o Mulched plants have more roots than plants that are not mulched, because mulched plants will produce additional roots in the mulch that surrounds them.

Types of Mulches

There are basically two types of mulches: organic and inorganic. Both types may have their place in the garden.

An organic mulch is a mulch made of natural substances such as bark, wood chips, leaves, pine needles, or grass clippings. Organic mulches attract insects, slugs, cutworms and the birds that eat them. They decompose over time and need to be replaced after several years.

Inorganic mulches, such as gravel, pebbles, black plastic and landscape fabrics, do not attract pests and they do not decompose, they do not provide eathworm friendly "homes", they do not add anything to the soil, and Hey....... are they really helping the environment??? I know, I know we are re-cycling....( I still like the organics better....can You Tell!!)



Mulch Materials

Organic Mulch Materials

Pine Bark

A 2- to 3- inch layer of pine bark is good for weed control. Pine bark makes an attractive, usually dark-colored mulch. It can be purchased in various particle sizes, from shredded to large-sized particles, called nuggets. Large pine bark nuggets float in water and may not stay in place during a heavy rain. They may also attract termites and other insects.

Pine Needles

A 2- inch layer of pine needles makes an excellent mulch for acid-loving trees and shrubs. This mulch is very attractive and allows water to penetrate easily.

Shredded Hardwood Mulch

This mulch is good at suppressing weeds. It does not wash away easily. It decomposes relatively slowly, and it is very attractive.



Cedar Mulch

One of my favorites has a fragrant aroma and is said to be a natural insect repellant.

Wood Chips

This material contains bark and pieces of wood of various sizes and makes attractive mulch. A 2- to 3- inch layer of wood chips provides good weed control. Small wood chips decompose very rapidly using nitrogen from the soil, which needs to be replaced by nitrogen fertilizer. Wood chips may attract termites and other insects.

Pecan Shells

Pecan shells make a long-lasting, attractive, dark brown mulch that is effective in retaining moisture in the soil and can even help lower the soils PH in some instances. Availability is usually limited to areas where pecans are processed.

Inorganic Mulch Materials:

Gravel, Pebbles and Crushed Stone

These materials are permanent and are best used for permanent plantings such as foundation plants. A 1- inch layer of small rocks will provide good weed control. Do not use them around acid-loving plants since the rocks may add alkaline elements and minerals to the soil. These materials reflect solar radiation and can create a very hot landscape environment during the summer months.



Landscape Cloth or Woven Ground Cloth

Materials woven of fabric, plastic or paper are available in various lengths and widths. The materials are treated to resist decomposition. Unlike plastic films, woven materials allow water and air to move through them. They are very effective in controlling most weeds, although some grasses may grow up through the holes in the fabric. Landscape cloth needs to be fastened down so it will not be pushed up by perennial weeds. Better moisture, temperature and weed control will be obtained by adding several inches of another mulching material on top of the landscape cloth.

Ground Rubber Tires

Mulches made of ground rubber tires do not decompose and therefore, never need to be replaced. The use of ground rubber tires is relatively new and its effectiveness as a mulch is still being evaluated, but it is a great cover for play areas.

Where to Use Mulch

Mulching is a very important practice for establishing new plantings, because it helps to conserve moisture in the root ball of the new plant until the roots have grown out into the surrounding soil. The growth rate and health of trees and shrubs increases when there is no competition for water and nutrients from weeds. Mulch also helps to prevent tree trunk injury by mowers and trimmers. Newly planted trees require a circle of mulch 3 to 4 feet in diameter, “note” keep the mulch from touching the base of the tree (keeps the bugs and moisture down). Maintain this for five years. Mulch entire beds of shrubs, trees, annuals, herbaceous perennials and ground covers.

Mulch can also be used to cover trails, driveways, and play and natural areas.

Light-weight mulch such as dried grass clippings and pine straw can be used temporarily to cover low-growing tender plants to protect them from frost injury.

When and How Often to Mulch

The best time to mulch new plantings is right after you plant them. Around established plants mulch is best applied in early spring. This is when plants are beginning to grow and before weed seeds start to germinate.

How often mulch needs to be replenished depends on the mulching material. Grass clippings and leaves decompose very fast and need to be replenished frequently. Inorganic mulches such as gravel and pebbles rarely need replenishing. As the plants grow and fill in the bed areas, less and less mulch is needed.

How to Apply Mulch

Before applying any type of mulch to an area, it is best to weed the area. Spread a layer of mulching materials over the entire plant bed. Keep mulch 2 to 3 inches away from the stems of woody plants. This will prevent decay caused by wet mulch and rodent damage during the winter. Keep mulch 6 to 12 inches away from the walls of buildings.

Newly planted trees require a circle of mulch 3 to 4 feet in diameter. Maintain this for at least three years. Do not pile mulch against the trunk. For established trees in lawns create a circle of mulch about 2 feet in diameter for each inch of trunk diameter. Increase the size of the mulched area as the tree grows. Try to apply the mulch at least 6 to 12 inches beyond the drip-line of the tree. Because the root system can extend two to three times the crown spread of the tree, mulch as large an area as possible.

How Deep to Mulch

The amount of mulch to apply depends on the texture and density of the mulch material. Many wood and bark mulches are composed of fine particles and should not be more than 2 to 3 inches deep. Excessive amounts of these fine-textured mulches can suffocate plant roots, resulting in yellowing of the leaves and poor growth.

Coarse-textured mulches such as pine bark nuggets allow good air movement through them and can be as deep as 4 inches.

Mulches composed of grass clippings or shredded leaves should never be deeper than 2 inches, because these materials tend to mat together, restricting the water and air supply to plant roots.

How to Calculate the Amount of Mulch Needed

To determine how many cubic feet of mulch is needed, you need to calculate the surface area and the desired depth of coverage. There are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard. One cubic yard will cover a 324-square-foot area with an inch of mulch. Figure out the square footage of your bed, that is the width times the length for square or rectangular shaped beds. The square footage of a circular bed is the distance from the middle of the circle to the outside, multiplied by itself and then multiplied by 3.14 (which is pi).

Multiply your square footage by the depth desired (in inches) and divide by 324 square feet. This will tell you how many cubic yards you will need.

(Thank You Very Much.... Clemson University for your Contribution :))

A Fall Celebration !!!!!!

The Celebration of Fall

Wow… nothing says holiday more than the first cool days of fall. The crisp cool evenings of the Friday night football games, hot apple cider, sweaters, coats, and the congregation of good friends after the summer swelter.

So once again we venture out and into our gardens to see what survived! And that veteran fall favorite the “mum” has survive the blistering reign of the Texas Summer Sun, well at least in my poor garden and flower bed area if you can call it that. My “mums” have survived and are actually starting to bloom. I was so startled I went out and immediately purchase the biggest; “orangeist” pumpkin I could find….Wahoo…Fall is finally here!! Here is one of my favorite of all plants the fall Mum……………………

(not this silly, this is a pumpkin…look below)

Fall Garden Mums






The garden mum (chrysanthemum) is one of the most exciting flowers that can be grown in the home landscape for late summer and fall color. Garden mums require a minimum amount of care and do well even under some adverse conditions. There are cultivars (varieties) with color that range from white to yellow, pink, purple, bronze, red and all the hues in between. With hundreds of cultivars available, the choice of plants to grow is unlimited. To have a more interesting collection of mums, plant cultivars of various types such as: singles, anemones, decoratives, pompons, spoons, spiders, and standards.



The term, garden mum, applies to chrysanthemum cultivars that will flower naturally in Texas and be early enough to avoid a heavy frost. The term "hardy" has been abandoned by most suppliers since hardiness of garden mum cultivars may vary significantly from one season or area depending on weather and previous cultural conditions.



Garden chrysanthemums are planted in the spring from established cuttings. This is contrary to years ago when they were offered primarily in the fall as clumps. Today the plants are being sold along with annual flowers and vegetables. Most of the plants are sold in pots and must be removed from the pots before planting. The plants generally have had at least one pinch, which results in a well-branched plant.

The sites for planting should be well-drained and have plenty of sunlight. The plants should be spaced 18 to 24 inches apart for best results, and for more vigorous cultivars, the plants need 30 to 36 inches of space. Enough space should be allowed so the plants can develop to their fullness. Plant the chrysanthemums the same depth that they were growing in their containers and no deeper. The plants should be thoroughly watered after planting.



Fertilizing the plants will develop good, green foliage with optimum flowering. Apply a complete dry fertilizer, such as a 6-2-4 or 4-2-3 analysis, at the rate of two to three pounds per 100 square feet of bed area. The dry fertilizer should be watered after it is applied. Soluble fertilizers, such as a 20-20-20 analysis, are also quite satisfactory to use if desired. Follow the rate of application on the label. Fertilization can be discontinued after flower buds form in late July. As the plants grow, they should be pinched to produce compact plants with more flowers. If this isn't done, the plants will become tall and leggy. Also, if the plants become quite tall, light will be excluded from the lower part of the plants, resulting in unsightly dead leaves.

When the plants are three to four inches tall, remove the new shoots by pinching them off between the thumb and forefinger. Leave two or three leaves on the shoot. This practice can be timed so that the fertilizing and pinching can be done the same day. This will usually be once a month from May through July. However, with most garden cultivars, the last pinch should be made no later than August 15. If pinching is continued after this date, flower buds will be eliminated from the plants.



Weeds, as with many other plants, may present a problem with growing garden chrysanthemums. These can be removed by hand, or the use of organic mulch could be used at the time of planting. Materials such as shredded hardwood or cedar mulch will do a good job of keeping the weeds down and conserving moisture in the soil if applied about two inches deep. Organic matter such as pine bark (that breaks down rapidly) will require an extra application of fertilizer to compensate for the nitrogen loss. Apply this fertilizer in addition to that which is applied for the plants. However, you will only need to apply it a couple of times and then stop. Pre-emergent herbicides such as Amaze, which are labeled for such use, can also be effective if applied in early spring before weed seeds germinate. Landscape fabrics and decorative gravel are also effective in weed control.



An important cultural practice with garden chrysanthemums is applying adequate amounts of water. During some summers, rainfall may be plentiful enough to eliminate most additional watering. However, the plants should be watered when the soil starts to dry. Apply enough water to soak the soil to a depth of four to six inches. This is best done by using sprinklers rather than hand watering. It is best to apply the water during the day so the foliage will dry off before nightfall. Otherwise, leaf and flower diseases can become a problem.



Fortunately for garden chrysanthemum growers, most insect and disease problems are controllable. The most common insect pests are: aphids and two spotted mites. Powdery mildew can also be a problem due to weather conditions and/or poor air circulation between the plants. Control by spraying or dusting with labeled products. One disease that cannot be controlled with chemicals is verticillium wilt. Avoid planting in verticillium-contaminated areas for several years.



In most instances, homeowners should consider the the garden chrysanthemum an annual flower. Therefore, when frost kills the tops of the plants, cut off the dead stems and remove from the garden. Sometimes mums will come up the next spring if just the tops of the plants are cut off. If you prefer to keep them over the winter, cut off the dead tops, and cover the plants with mulch to a depth of three to four inches.



(Many Thanks to the county extension agents and their great horticultural contributions, of which this article comes from)

Enjoy the life!!!

The Audit

THE IRRIGATION AUDIT

Wow, what an ominous sound….”audit” why the very word strikes fear into our hearts..Especially if one has ever been through an IRS audit. Well no fear here, this audit is to help you and save you dollar bills, while helping your plants grow.

Basically the audit is a thorough inspection of your irrigation system. The irrigator conducting the audit, will examine the system zone by zone looking for leaks, broken spray heads, miss-aligned heads, overspray onto hard surfaces or into the street. Broken heads spraying into the street…well that will surely get you thrown into irrigation jail!! (just kidding… but some cities will fine the property owner for some of these repeated violations).

Once the irrigator is satisfied that the system is operational, then the audit begins. Most auditors have special catch basins they use to collect samples of the water distributed in a particular zone …but it can be done with a normal tuna can (a clean empty one works best). Once the samples are collected measured, weighed, color analyzed, and documented…well maybe not that intense..just collected and measured. At this point the auditor can calculate the DU or Distribution Uniformity and the precipitation rate for that area.

Yeah I know, way too much information, by doing these calculations he will be able to set your timer for the most efficient run times based on your yard, plant material, slope and time of year. So what does that mean to you?



This is the part where you save money, the cities are happier, and your plants will look better (cause they have water). In the world of irrigation more is definitely not better, in many systems a run time of more than 10 minutes sends water down the street and away from your yard. And you still pay for it all month long…..bummer….So now with a better run time allocation, you water just enough not to induce run off, actually you may run several cycles just shorter in length.

Do you really need a full audit, well if you are a large commercial property, an irrigation audit and the resulting correct settings for your timer can save you thousands of dollars. The normal residential homeowner can dramatically benefit from a system check up twice a year…..it will save you money…I promise…fix those broken and miss-aligned heads..you will feel better about yourself (well I cannot promise that)



Enjoy the life!

It's Green, It's Sustainable....It is the Right Thing To Do

HOT FUN IN THE SUMMER TIME

Well summer is quickly approaching and that means in Texas “ Hot Fun In the Summertime” lots of heat, sun, sweat, and very little rain fall. So it is smart to try and capitalize on as much rainfall as possible and you want to be smart…right??

As a licensed irrigator and an irrigation auditor (Thank You Very Much) in the state of Texas, I can tell you with some veracity that an irrigation system is only for supplemental watering. Unfortunately most of our water loss or more accurately water waste is from residential irrigation systems. Many systems are not properly designed, not set correctly and send thousands of gallons of water down the sewer and guess who pays for that… YOU… every month.

So let us be smart, sustainable, water wise and in the process save ourselves some bucks so we can go and buy a big screen TV (just kidding…..may be). One of the best ways to do this is with a Rain Barrel. Capture the rain from your home gutter system and then use to water your garden, your annual color, that great perennial bed that you keep saying you are going to plant (yeah sure) or slow water your foundation during those Texas summers.

Rain Barrels have been around…well…since barrels were designed and how long is that? I don’t know check Wiki-Pedia….they know everything. Seriously when water was not so readily available and easy to waste, people tried to save every bit, morsel, drop they could…it was life and still is.

Now if you have read my blog for a while (many smart people do.. now so should you) you know I do not try to sell you stuff…just ideas. BUT get a rain barrel for your home, the environment will love you for it and that means your children will be able to fish, jet ski ,skinny dip (how does that make you feel) and just plain live.

Try these fellows….GREEN BARREL SOLUTIONS .www.greenbarrelsolutions.com.. 940-736-7313

Just a couple of kids trying to do the right thing…the right way….

Enjoy the life…

Your on the Border...Texas Style

Border Plants

I know everyone will be thinking these are plants from the wild borders of Texas, Not so Mr. Bill, we are talking about landscape decisions. Border plants create divisions within beds,  around walkways , swimming pools and just about everything you could think of or want to think of.  Border plantings should be low, you want them low so the folks can see the other plants behind them......you don't want your border plants stealing all the thunder.

These plants can offer color, texture, and divisions of height within a bed, it is all about directing the eye to the natural flow of the landscape. What budding landscaper's want is for the line of sight to flow upward directing the eye to the back of the bed and eventually the structure that the bed is emphasizing.....like your beautiful house.....you know curb appeal and all that. Here are some of my favorite border plants:

Ruellia

Dianthus

Hostas

Ferns